Learn To Surf Part 4 - The Fun Part, Catching your First Wave
By now yo should have read the first articles on choosing the right board, how to paddle, and getting out through the waves. So next is the fun part, the part you’ve been waiting for.
Catching your first wave :
Now that you have made it out the back, straddle your surfboard so your bum is just below the center. This makes it easiest to swing the board around when a set comes.
When you straddle your board, face towards the horizon so no freak swells surprise you and break right on top of you. You should also note a landmark on shore and continually check that you haven’t drifted away from it.
When you catch your breath, and you see a nice small wave, that looks full enough to pick you up, but isn’t just going to stand straight up and dump you, turn your board around to face the shore, lay down with your weight cantered, and begin to paddle.
It may take a few times to get your position right, so remember this so you know which way to change it. If you are lying to far back on your surfboard, it will create to much drag, and you will not get enough speed, dropping off the backside of the wave.
Where as if you are to far forward on the board, you will end up flipping over or tumbling down the face of the wave. You need to stay forward enough to get the speed, but keep your chest up and lean back as you drop. Ultimately you would pop to your feet, just as begin to feel the board take, but when learning you want to wait until you have dropped down to the flat water in front of the wave.
You need to paddle as hard as you can straight towards the beach. When you get more experienced you can angle your board more, to head along the wave. But since you just want to catch the water in front of the wave, just head straight.
You caught the wave and you just have to stand up, so read the next article to learn how to stand up.
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